Plaiting-machine



(No Model.)

- 4Sheets-Sheet; 2. O. CLARK. Plaiting Machine.

Patented March 1,1881.

N4 PETERS, FHOTOLITHDGRAPNER, WASNKNGTON, 0 c4 4 Sheets-Sheet 3.

(No Model.)

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05 n UH aw .11 P o 5 3 8 3. 2 0 N "PETERS, FHOTD-UTI-IOGRAPNERWASHINGYON D C 4 Sheets-She et 4.

(No Model.)

0. CLARK. Plaitin-g Machine.

No. 238,350, Patented Mai-Ch 1,188].

. UNITED STATES T PATENT OFFICE.

CORNELIUS CLARK, OF BROOKLYN, ASSIGNOR TO HIMSELF ,AND OLINTO I E.SMITH, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

PLAlTlNG-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 238,350, dated March 1,1881. Application filed May 8.11880. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, CORNELIUS CLARK, acitizen of the United States, residingiu Brooklyn, county of Kings, andState of New York, haveinvented certain new and useful Improvements inMachines for Making Fluted or Ruffled Fabrics, of which the following isa specification.

The machine is intended more especially for use in the manufacture ofthe articles known as ruches, and I will so describe it.

The machine first throws the material into a series of uniformcorrugations extending across, and compresses the fluted or corrugatedstuff along a narrowline, which may be in the middle of its breadth ornearer either edge, eftecting this by a series of intermittentcompressions by a device which moves with the goods while exerting apressure. This tends to produce aflattened and smoothly-finished surfacealong a narrow line. Its action is followed by a strong pressure of awheel rolled backward and forward alon g the same path. This is followedby a continued gentle pressure of the goods on the same narrow line. Themachine thus carries the goods forward, subjecting the richly-flutedmaterial on each side of such path first to a gentle dampening by steamand subsequently to a continuous dry heat sutficient to nearly or quitedry it. Provisions being made for introducing a thin tape or one or moresmall cords to be pressed down and adhere to the ruche along theflattened line, the result is a very perfect ruche, which may be madewith great rapidity.

1n the more complete form of the machineI employ additional devices,which serve to gather the corrugations or flutes intogracefully-arranged groups, so that the subsequent compression, insteadof treating on simple uniformly-corrugated stufl', treats the stuffwhich has been first uniformly corrugated and then peculiarly gatheredinto groups. The result of this mode of operation is to produce rucheswith what I term multiplied plaits. The details will appear farther on.

The accompanying drawings form apart of i this specification, andrepresent what I consider the best means of carrying. out the invention.

I Figure l is a general side elevation, showing all the principal partsin simpleform. Fig. 2 is a plan view of the same. Fig. 3 is a section onthe line 8 s in Fig. 2. Figs. 3 and 3 are sections, in detail, of thehorn or carrier and presser-wheels. The remaining figures show certainparts on a larger scale, which are added to constitute the completemachine, and adapted to produce multiplied plaits. Fig. 4 is a sectionand elevation of a portion of the machine corresponding to Fig. 3. Fig.5 is aper- 6o spective view, showing the oscillating presser and themanner of applying the tape to the goods. Fig. 6 is a perspective viewof the gages. Fig. 7 is a perspective view of the molds and adjacentparts. Fig. 8 is a section of the fluted material with single plaits inthe position about to be formed into what I term multiplied plaits.Fig.9 is an elevation of the molds, showing the operation of arrangingthe multiplied plaits. Fig. 10 is a section along a line nearer thecenter of the piece of goods.

Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in all thefigures.

A is the fixed frame-work of the machine.

B is a long approved flitting-chain. It is traversed slowly, and thematerial, which we will assume to be a strip of crepe liss-e of uniformwidth and ofindefinite length, is takenin rapidly on the entering sidein a plane condition, and is delivered at the other side slowly andproperly formed in graceful curves or plaits extending uniformly across.

G Gr H H are wide wheels or rolls, presentin g each a rough exterior.They are slowly revolved in the positions represented. The corrugatedmaterial on being delivered from the fluting chain or device B is raiseda little and drawn delicately through the space between the rollers G G.From thence it is delivered, aided by gravity, into the bite of therollers H H which do not extend uniformly across, but are each dividedinto two separate wheels with a little space between them. In the spacebetween the two parts of each roller 9 5 H H is performed the importantfunction of commencing to flatten a portion of t the ruche to form thepressed line-a flattened andpractieally plane portion of the goods-shywhich it may be sewed or otherwise secured to any plane material orsurface.

D is a member of the mechanism which corresponds in its uses in themachine to the lower belt correspondingly lettered in the inventionother suitable material.

set forth in my patent of April 20, 1880, No. 226,719. It is revolved ata rate corresponding to the motion of the fluted material, and is heatedat one or more points to maintain the proper temperature. 1 term thisdevice D arevolving horn or carrier. This born or carrier is narrow.

O is a corresponding narrow belt, of brass or It is strained overpulleys G 0 mounted in a yielding frame, W, pivoted loosely on a leverW. The belt 0 is traversed at a rate corresponding with the motion ofthe horn or carrier D.

J is what I term my vibrating presser. It is narrow. It may correspondnearly or exactly with the width of the horn or carrier D, but ispreferably much narrower. it rocks on a pin, j, which is carried on alever, I, rocking on a center, i, which is peculiarly mounted on a freelever, K, as will be explained farther on. This lever I is rocked sothat the presser J is rapidly vibrated up and down. At each depressionthe presser and the goods under it are carried forward by the frictioninduced on the horn or carrier D. At each lift it liberates itself andis brought back to its starting-point by means of a spring, and by thecontinued motion of the horn or carrier D a fresh supply is introducedto be flattened down at the next descent. This effectually flattens thecorrugations or formed goods along the narrow line on which it acts whenthe presser J is down on the goods.

is a lever oscillating on an axis coincident with the axis of the hornor carrier D. The center of the wheel 0 is pivoted on this lever W atthe point of junction, its axis coincidin g with and forming the centerof junction for the framing W, before described. This lever W is rockedor oscillated regularly. It follows that the frame W and the connectedpulleys O O are oscillated forward and backward relatively to the hornor carrier D and to the ruche which is traversed thereon.

E is a gas-pipe, terminating in a suitable jet or series of jets, which,being ignited and the flow of gas properly adjusted, maintain the propertemperature of the born or carrier D.

It will be observed that while the shafts of the rollers G, H, and G2may extend continuously across the machine, the shaft of the wheels Hmust be divided to allow the born or carrier D to turn freely betweenthe parts of the wheel H. This will not require a separate drawing. Itis sufficient to mount each of the two short rollers or wheels H inseparate bearings, with provisions for communicating the proper rotarymotion thereto. The first pair of rough rollers, Gr G being placed asshown, so that the freshly-fluted material is carried upward on one sideof the lower roller, H and allowed to descend again on the other side ofthe same roller, insures, by the great surface in contact, so strong anadhesion of the goods to the roller that they are certain to becontrolled by the speed thereof.

The pinch due to the upper roller, G, is necessarily slight andirregular but the friction of each corrugation against the lower rough:ened roll, G is sufficient to insure that the fluted material isproperly drawn out from the fluting device B, and also to insure that itshall not be fed forward to the second set of rollers, H H andconsequently under the presser J too fast in any case.

Instead of a tape, on, of greater or less breadth, laid along theflattened surface and pressed down thereon, I can use two cords or more.It is sufflcient that there be a piece of reliable material extending ina direct line along the flattened surface, so that any slight tension towhich the ruche is exposed in handling previous to sewing it to anygarment will be received and borne by the cord or tape or otherlongitudinal piece.

Fig. 7 shows the vibrating presser J, considerably grooved at the backto receive and guide a tape which is represented as being introducedfrom above. The groove should be gradually lessened in depth as itextends forward, so that the slight thickness of the tape will beimpressed into the goods and the finished article will be plane on itsupper surface. Two or any other number of cords may be correspondinglyemployed, being received 1 through any suitable guides. sented.)

L L are gages set at a proper distance apart to allow the strip of thematerial to move freely between them. To allow for the material varyingslightly in breadth, one gage, L, is itself elastic or has a springattached, so that it can spring to allow for varying width of goods.

It will be understood that steam is thrown upon the fluted fabric fromeach side at or near the points of its emergence from under thevibrating presser J, the devices for this purpose being the same asshown in my patent of April 20.. 1880, above referred to.

It is a covering-plate, which is mounted at a little distance from thecurved path described by the fluting in the act of being steamed anddried on the horn or carrier D. This curved plate R corresponds to thesimilarly-marked part in my patent of April 20, 1880, above referred to.

Any ordinary or suitable provisions are made for imparting heat to thefluting device B. Heat may be applied, by gas-jets or otherwise, to thewheels 0 G or either of them.

The machine, in the condition so far described, can be used to produceplain ruching. The flattened stripe produced by the vibrating presser Jand afterward perfected by the damping and drying of the whole inposition may be produced exactly in the middle of the breadth of theruche, or at any distance toward either side. This may be deter- (Notrepremined by the position of the gages L L. The

ruche thus finished, with the narrow strip of flattened surfaceextending along its central line, may be used in that condition bysewing small flutes.

or otherwise attaching to any garment, in which case the frills willextend both ways from that line; or the double ruche thus produced maybe folded along the central line,

so that both frilled edges will be presented in the same direction, andit may be attached to any garment or article in that position, or thevolutions and for-pressing down a line along the middle or at otherparts of the breadth will now be described. They are shown in Figs. 8and 9.

I wish to accomplish the apparentl y difficult matterof causing thepreviouslyfluted material to be itself fluted or formed incross-corrugations of such size that each of these large corrugations orcross-flutes, webs, or whatever they may be termed, contain eight orsome other exact number of the previously-formed The beauty of theproduct depends largely on the regularity with which this compoundingot' the fluting is accom- -plished.

P P are two light skeleton-frames, which I term molds, fixed on the armI at a sufflcient distance apart to allow the presser J and therevolving born or carrier D to play freely between them. At each descentof the lever I the presser J rests on and flattens a narrow portion ofthe fluted material lying directly on the revolving horn or carrier D,while the ing upper molds, P, but the lower are longer.

They turn on centers on the same lever farther from the working-point,which latter it willbe understood is alongside of the working part ofthe presser J. The lever I, carrying the uppermolds, has a short arm, 1extending rearward from the axis '11, the rear arm, 1 being connected,by a link, F, with the pin Q on the lower mold, Q, causing the sinkingof P to elevate Q, and thus to close the molds together. The webs Q, arein thespaces between the webs P. When the uppermolds, P, sink and thelower molds, Q, rise the webs P and Q, meshing together, perform theimportant function ofaetin g on the material M,

previously fluted uniformly bythe device B, and

throwing it into the peculiar corrugations which I have termedmultiplied plaits.

T is a spring which induces the separation of the molds.

The motions are obtained from the other mechanism by means of levers andlinks, as is plainly shown in Fig. 4.

Z is an arm mounted loosely on the rocking shaft 1'. Its outer endcarries a roller, Z, which presses on the eccentric-rod b. The latterrod has, by virtue of its being moved by the eccentric b. a motion, notonly endwise, but also upward and downward. The up-anddown motion ismade to produce the desired vertical motions of the presser J, and alsothe required opening and closing of the molds P The arrangement forattaining this end is very fully shown in Fig. 4.

It is important to allow some degree of elasticityto the several parts.The presser J is acted by a spring, J, secured to the armj, which tendsto raise its front end and depress its rear end. This tendency being ofmod erate force is overcome, and the presser J matches fairly flatwiseupon the corresponding surface of the ruche and effectually flattens itupon the horn or carrier D. When the arm 6 rises the presserJ tilts onits oenterj in obedience to the force of the spring J. It is importantto restrain this tilting motion from going beyond a certain extent. I donot wish to keep the back end of the presser always on the goods. Iavoid this by so proportioning the parts that the shaft of the roller Hserves as a stop to arrest the tilting of the presser J. The action ofthis stop, by arresting the tilting, leaves the work entirely untouchedby the presser, so that it can move forward freely.

The arm Z is attached to the lever I elastically by means of the springY. This allows the parts to be adjusted with considerable license. Afterthe presser J has been brought into firm contact with the revolving hornor with the flattened goods lying thereon, and after the molds P Q havebeen fully closed the eccentric-rod Z) may rise still higher and maycorrespondingly lift the lever Z, because the spring Y, by its yielding,allows for this motion without inducing any fracture. The born orcarrier D revolves steadily. When the presser J is brought down firmlyupon the goods resting on the horn, it takes hold of it with a clampingforce, which causes the presser J and all its attachments to move alongfor the time being with the slow motion of the horn or carrier D. Sosoon as the presser J is lifted the parts return to their previousposition by the action of the spring N. The molds P Q, being pivoted tothe same loose lever K, partake of the same forward and backward motion.

In order to operate successfully with the molds P Q, so as to make themultiplied flutings with perfection, it is important that the severalpreliminaryflutes produced by the device B shall be crowded togethersufficiently close that their convolutions shall always be in faircontact each with the other. For plain workI mean where the aggregationswhich I have termed multiplied flutings are not prodnced--the simpleflutes produced in the device B will allow of being held and flatteneddown in the finishing at various distances apart. Their distance dependson the velocityratio of the respective parts of my machinery. I canchange this within wide limits by any of the ordinary devices-ascone-pulleys, changeable gears, and the like.

It is important that the relative speed of the parts of the machine maybe varied as required.

It is of much advantage to form the plaits or flutes completelybeforethe flattening is commenced, and to flatten by a distinct and separateoperation. If the mechanisms are made to act on the same pointsimultaneously, they interfere with each other, unless the parts areconfined to certain specific forms and modes of operation. My invention,as shown, allows any required vaiiation in the means for forming theplaits and in the form and motions of the flattening device withoutinterfering with each other.

I use the terms rob and reef, as explained in my previous patentreferred to, to designate the two actsthe first, the act of stretchingthe corrugations apart and putting less of the fabric M into a givenlength of the ruche, and the latter to indicate the act of crowding-theflutings together, so as to put more material into a given length of theruche. By properly adjusting the parts the result is theplacin g of theseveral corrugations or flutes in regular piles or bunches, as indicatedin Fig. 5. Being pressed in this condition, the ruche retains thatcharacter.

The conditions of the corrugations may be varied within wide limits byvarying the speed of the parts and the depth and distance apart of thewebs P Q relatively to the size of the flutings, and the rate at whichthey are delivered from the fluting device B.

Modifications may be made in the details. I

. can place the pulleys O O farther apart or nearer together, making themetallic band C to correspondingly hug the flattened part of the ruchelonger or shorter upon the heated horn or carrier D. I believe myflattening meansJ to be so et'ficient that the machine may be workedwith some success without the metallic band 0, and with only the pulleyG traversed back and forward on the flattened path after' the presserJhas done its work. The cover-plate It will in such case hold the ruchein shape while the (.lryingis completed. I can dispense with the beltfor driving the pulley O, and allow it to be moved by the goods alone.

I-d0 not confine the invention to the making of articles technicallyknown as ruches.

By making the ruching or fluting device B in different forms I can makethe cross corrugations or plaits of dif erent breadths and forms, andmay term it crimping, or various other names.

It will be understood that I use organdie, tarlatan, or any othermaterial which can be thrown into waves or plaits, and held, and whichcan be steamed, flattened, and thrown into the multiplied plaits, whenrequired, in substantially the manner herein shown.

When the multiplied plaits are not required I can disconnect the molds Pand Q, either taking off the working parts altogether or turning themout of the way.

When the molds P Q are used they may be differently connected, so as towork independently of the presser J, instead of, as shown, turning on acommon center; but I' prefer the precise arrangement shown.

I claim as my invention- 1. In a ruching-machine, the vibrating presserJ, in combination with a fluting device, B, and with means, D, formoving the fluted material forward under the vibrating presser, arrangedas shown, so that the operations are separate, the flutes being firstproduced and the flattening of a portion being effected on each flute ata later period, all substantially as herein specified.

2. In combination with fluting device B and flattening device D J, themolds P Q, for arranging the flutes to produce aggregations ormultiplied plaits, as herein specified.

3. In a ruching-machine, the combination, with flutin g device B, of thecarrier D, vibrating presser J, and oscillating lever K, arranged 5 asshown, so that the presser J and its connections are allowed to moveforward with the said carrier during the period while the pressure is onthe material, and are caused to move back when the pressure thereon isrelaxed, substantially as herein specified.

4'. The mold P, formed with the webs P, in combination with the mold Q,having the webs Q, arranged as shown, so that the webs alternate inposition with spaces between and with means for operating them with anopening and closing movement, as herein specified.

5. The rough rollers G G H H, arranged, as shown, relatively to thefluting device B and to the carrier 1), flattening means J, andlaundering means (J O as herein specified.

6. In a ruching-machine, the pulleys O C and flexible band C, mounted onthe frame W, and adapted to be vibrated forward and backward relativelytothe carrier D, as herein specified. I

7. The framing W and W, pivoted together, as shown, in combination withthe rod b and operating means b, and with the carrier D, pulleys 0 O andbelt 0, and provisions for applying steam at an early stage and dry heatat a later stage, as herein specified.

8. The rigid gage L, and the yielding gage L, in combination with eachother and with fluting means B, and pressing means adapted to flatten anarrow portion of the breadth, as herein specified.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand, at New York city, N.Y., this 29th day of April, 1880, in the presence of two subscribin gwitnesses.

Witnesses: CORNELIUS CLARK.

CHARLES R. SEARLE, CHARLES C. S'rETsoN.

